How to draft a basic panty pattern

Croquis PantyHello dear readers,

In this tutorial I want to introduce you to my method of drafting a basic panty pattern. A basic pattern is usually used as a foundation for future pattern manipulation. However you can use this pattern directly to make a panty. This is the first article of a series that will deal with pattern construction, pattern manipulation and sewing of panties. So many exciting things to come!

If you wish to stay updated on further articles you can submit to my newsletter or follow me on facebook!

Let’s get started!

Materials

For drafting on paper:

  • Transparent Drafting Paper
  • Pencil
  • Ruler (50 cm length is ideal)
  • Square
  • Dividers (optional)

Taking Measurements

You only need to take four measurements for this pattern! Correct measurements are really important for a fitting pattern, so do this step very carefully. If possible, ask someone else to measure you.

Measure the waist girth first. The waist sits at the narrowest part between the bust and hips, usually around 2 cm over the belly button. After measuring the waist line, tie an elastic tape around your waist, cause your waistline will function as a reference line for the other measurements. Then measure the hip girth. The hip girth is not measured over the hip bones but over the strongest part of the hips, that is over the bottom. Now do the vertical measurements: ‘Waist to hip’ is measured at the side, the measuring tape follows the curve of the hip. The ‘crotch depth’ is measured in the front with a straight measuring tape.’Crotch depth’ should be longer than ‘waist to hip’.

  • Waist girth
  • Hip girth
  • Waist to hip
  • Crotch depth
  • Gusset length = 14 cm (The gusset length stays the same trough all sizes, so you don’t need to measure it)

Drafting the Pattern

In this example I draft for a size 38(EU), 12(UK) or 10(US). I use the following measurements:

  • Waist girth = 72 cm
  • Hip girth = 97 cm
  • Waist to hip = 22 cm
  • Crotch depth = 27 cm
  • Gusset length = 14 cm 

Step 1: Guidelines

Step1

  1.  AD = ((waist girth)/4) * 0.9 (The 0.9 is for the stretch of the fabric, use 0.85 for very stretchy fabric and 0.95 for slightly stretchy fabric)
  2. AB = waist to hip
  3. BE = ((hip girth)/4) * 0,9 (Use the same stretch percentage as in AD)
  4. AC = Crotch depth
  5. CF = 4 cm (This measurement stays the same trough all sizes)
  6. Mark G halfway between D and E and draw a  8 mm long line perpendicular to the line DE

 

 

 

Step 2: Drawing the front panty

  1. Step 2 AL = 25 mm
  2. Draw the curve from L to D
  3. Draw the curve from D to E
  4. Draw a circle around D with radius r = 0.6 * (waist to hip)
  5. Mark H at the intersection point

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 3: Drawing the front panty

  1.  Connect H and F with a line
  2. Draw a circle around H with radius r = (2/3) * (length of line HF)
  3. From the intersection point draw a line of 25 mm perpendicular to HF and mark J

 

 

 

 

 

Step 4: Finishing the front panty

  1. Step 4.1Step 4.2 Draw the curve from H over J to F
  2. Remove all unnecessary guidelines

The front panty is finished! :)

 

 

 

 

 

Step 5: Drawing the back

  1. Step 5 LK = 10 mm
  2. Draw the curve from K to D
  3. AO = (crotch depth) + ((1/4) * gusset length)
  4. Draw the curve from O to P (Measurements are in the sketch. They stay the same trough all sizes.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 6: Drawing the back

  1. Step 6 Draw a circle (radius r = 20 mm) around H an mark at the intersection point
  2. Connect M to P
  3. Draw a circle around M (radius r = 20 mm) and mark N at the intersection point with MP
  4. Mark Q halfway between N and P and draw a 15 mm long line perpendicular to NP

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 7: Finishing the back panty

  1. Step 7.2Step 7.2 Draw a curve from H to P following your guidelines
  2. Remove all unnecessary guidelines

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 8: Drawing the gusset

  1. Step10 CO = gusset length (14 cm)
  2. Connect F and P with a smooth curve

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 9: Finishing the pattern

  1. Mirror the pattern pieces at the center line
  2. Move down the waistline for a midi or mini style
  3. Add seam allowance

Step12

 

You finished your pattern and you’re ready to sew your panty! I’m sure there are some tutorials out there in the internet, that teach how to sew a panty: :) I’ll also show you my way of sewing a panty in one of my next articles.

But at first I want to focus more on pattern making and the next articles will deal with digital pattern making. On the basis of this panty pattern I’ll show you how to draft and manipulate patterns in Valentina and Corel Draw. Exciting, isn’t it !?
If you wish to stay updated on further articles you can submit to my newsletter or follow me on facebook!

If you have any troubles drafting the pattern, just ask in the comments, I’ll try to answer as soon as I read it! :)

 

 

 

 

 

23 thoughts on “How to draft a basic panty pattern

  1. Thank you so much for this! I’ve used so many methods to draft a panty, but this is the first I’ve found that doesn’t require cloning or modifying a pant or skirt block. You are a goddess!

  2. Very nice!
    This was the first Valentina tutorial I’ve seen that one can follow along. I had known about it for a couple of years now but until your video I was unsuccessful. Please keep up the great work! I would love to see you do one on a corset. I see a lot of potential with Valentina like shoes, purses, shirts, jeans and more.

    I was playing with the Measurement db and found although the Add custom is quick the “Add known” is quite intuitive as the functions are built in and will save time in the long run. So far I add only whats needed for the pattern and would have several measurement files per person(i.e. only add leg dimensions for pants) to keep from having to scroll through the list of options.

    Great job and Thanks for sharing!

  3. I drafted a panties pattern from your instructions without a computer or that program and they turned out great! They fit nice and smooth.I simply followed instructions as if from a book. I’m like a 48 inch hip, 36 waist.

    Please post a tutorial for sewing them, as I’d like to experiment with construction techniques.

    Thanks for this!

    I used this page for sewing them:

    http://www.leenas.com/English/sew_panties.html

    1. Thank you for your feedback! :) I’m glad to hear, that it worked for you!
      I already filmed a new video tutorial on construction techniques, especially applying different sorts of elastics. It “just” needs editing. ^^ I hope it will go live in august.

  4. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. This is gold! I was looking for a swimwear drafting construction on internet for days and finally found your tutorial. My swimsuit is great!

  5. You are a living muse, thank you! I never would have figured out the Valentina without you to guide me! Now I have it downloaded, and have ordered 3 drafting pattern books, Awesome..

  6. Thank you for this pattern! Your site is very instructional!
    I contacted my own pair but I found the seat to be a bit big. How would I go about adjusting them?
    Thank you again so much!

  7. Hi
    Thanks for the tutorial! Quick question, if you were sewing with a stretch fabric or sewing this pattern for swimwear would you forgo a seam allowance so the pattern needs to stretch a little to fit?

    1. I believe this is why you multiply by 0.9 in step 1, #1 and #3. You can choose different numbers if you’re working with an exceptionally stretchy fabric. Leaving out the seam allowances would have a similar effect, but could distort some of the seams (esp. the crotch gusset seams).

  8. I was a little surprised to see your 1st images of the completed pantY. But also noted the concave shaping on your panty’s back leg edge.
    Am designing panty for friend with hips 77″. She’d be miserable if hip panty-line cut above her hips as your pix suggests. Any suggestions for much more ample hip-back-leg allowance.
    Your pattern so very well thought out both geometrically and mathematically. Am much impressed with your designing skill.

  9. i’m soooooooooooooooo gratfull for this as an apprentice this helped me alot in my practices i love it so well written and explained i also share the love for luxurious lingerie thank you so much you’re the best

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