Dress form pattern Mannique

About Mannique

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Since I got into serious corset making, I was searching for a dress form to present my corsets. A dress from does not only show off your corsets beautifully, it’s also very helpful during the construction process, for example when deciding on lace placement. Yet I found no dressform on the market that suited my needs, so I decided to make my own. I’m rather obsessed with corset pattern making, so I loved to challenge myself with something as complicated as a dress form pattern. And here is the final result! The dress form “Mannique” is inspired by victorian corset dress forms, but the cups give her a more modern look and better fit on modern corsets. Her name is composed of mannequin and unique, cause Mannique is a truly unique dress form! She’s made from upholstery fabric, filled with polyester pillow stuffing and a plastic tube that works as a spine.

The Mannique dress form pattern

Mannique in action
Mannique in action

Download the Mannique dress form pattern!

The Mannique dress form pattern is a free pattern from Timelace Studio to enable you to make your own corset dress form.

The pattern comes without seam allowance. Important lines like bustline, waistline and hipline are drawn into the pattern, so it can be scaled to a different size. Since the dress form is very compressible, it should be bigger than the corset, in which it shall fit in.

Measurements Mannique
Bust 102 cm
Underbust 84,5 cm
Waist 69 cm
Upper Hip 97 cm
Lower Hip 114 cm
Waist to bust 16 cm
Waist to underbust 9 cm
Waist to upper hip 11 cm
Waist to lower hip 24,5 cm

The numbers and letters in the pictures of the finished dress form are the same as in the pattern, to help you understand how the parts belong together.


In the following section I’ll tell you, how to make your own Mannique!


  • The Mannique dress form pattern: download here!
  • about 1,5 m x 1,5 m heavy upholstery fabric or other stiff and durable fabric (faux leather, coutil, …)
  • A plastic tube:
    • diameter: 10 cm to 15 cm, length: 70 cm
  • pillow filling: about hundred liters or 2 kg
    • using real pillow filling instead of old fabric scraps will give much better results!
Your plastic tube should look like this

You should be able to buy the plastic tube in your local building store. The plastic tube is an important feature of the dress form, cause it keeps it upright!




Seam techniques

This project will only use two different seam techniques:

Seam technique 1: Topstitched 


Place the correct side of two pieces of fabric together, match the edges, and stitch a straight seam along the seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open. Topstitch on both sides about 1 mm away from the seam.

Seam technique 2: Plain

This seam is constructed in the same way as the topstitched seam, just without the topstitching. 😉


  1. Draw the seam allowance around each panel (suggested is 1 cm)
  2. Cut once: panel 1, 10, 11 and 12
  3. Cut twice: all other panels


  1. Body: Join the parts 1, 2 and 3 and also join the parts 4, 5 and 6. Use seam technique 1. Leave the sides seams (between the parts 3 and 4) and the back seam (between part 6 and 6) open.
  2. Cups: Stitch the darts on the parts 7 and 8 (seam technique 2), then join these parts(seam technique 1). Join the two cups at the front seam (between part 7 and 7). (Seam technique 1)
  3. Stitch the cups to the front body (from g over h to g) using seam technique 1.
  4. Now close the side seam (between the parts 3 and 4) and the shoulder seams (from f to e) using seam technique 1.
  5. Neck: Stitch part 10 to the neckline. (from c to e to d to e to c) Use seam technique 1 but topstitch only on the upper side of the seam (in part 10).
  6. Now close the back seam (from b to n) using seam technique 1. Great! You’re almost finished! 🙂
  7. Closing the form: Close the neck with part 12 (from m to n to m), the armhole with part 9 (from g to i to k to g) and the bottom with part 11 (from a to b to a). Use seam technique 2. These seams are a bit difficult to sew, so handbaste them before stitching!
  8. Turn the dress form to the correct side through the hole in the bottom.
  9. Filling the form: Put some filling into the neck so that it’s almost full, then place the plastic tube inside the form. Stuff as much filling into the form as you can. The plastic tube should go straight down from the neck to the bottom, so it can function as a stand.
  10. When you think your form will explode if you put any more filling into it, you’re ready to close the hole on the bottom by hand sewing a piece of fabric onto it.

And that’s it! You’re finished! Congratulations! 🙂

If you make a dress form from this pattern, I’d love to see your pictures! Please send them to contact@timelace-studio.com so I can add them to this post!

What do you think about this pattern? Please share your thoughts in the comments! 🙂


21 thoughts on “Dress form pattern Mannique”

  1. Pingback: Schnittmuster Schneiderpuppe Mannique – Timelace Studio

    1. That depends on what “normal” is for you. You wont reach industry standards with a homemade form, since it is far softer than an industrial produced form. But you can make it bigger around the waist to give it more normal proportions. 🙂

      1. You could instead stuff it with straw and sew an underlayer of cotton batting to it. That would give the firmness you would need for a dress form.

  2. Do you normally just have this form sit on a table?

    What adaptations would you make if you wanted to inserts stand into it?
    I was thinking of putting a small wooden/plastic disk on the neck or maybe blocking the tube part way so the post from a stand wouldn’t go all the way through. What do you think? Any other suggestions you think might work better?

    Thank you for sharing this. I need pne for a bazaar I’m doing and don’t really want to spend the $200 it would cost me to get one from Roxy at the moment.

    1. Hello Amara,

      Yes, my form just sits on a table or on a flower stand. (I’m not sure, if flower stand is the correct english word, but I mean something like this: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Pflanzensaule-Blumensaule-Saule-Blumenstander-Stander-/141942692111?hash=item210c71990f:g:IrsAAOSwdU1W9W~5)
      I think both your ideas could work well. I would probably put a wooden disk into the bottom and connect it to the plastic tube (maybe with screws and glue?). Then I would attach the stand to the wooden disk.
      I’m curious how you’ll solve the problem. I hope everything works out for you and you have wonderful time at you bazaar. 🙂

    2. I would cut a base, minus the seam allowance from wood. Extend the length of the mannequin by an inch or so, so you can pull underneath the wood and staple in place. Put an end cap on the tube and screw it to the wood base and then attach your stand to the wooden base.

      You can also do the same to weight a table top version and put low furniture legs on the bottom instead of a stand.

      To cover the underside, trim back the excess and glue on a piece of felt or attach a ruffle/fringe to the very lower edge to hide the underside.

  3. Majik Time Studio

    I’m making this to use as a dress maker’s dummy. I already added a piece between 3 and 4 to increase the waist size.

    I’m wondering if there’s a structural need for the top stitching or if I can serge all the seams for quicker assembly. Do you have any thoughts?

    1. Hello Majik,

      I can’t give a general answer about the topstitching. It depends on your fabric and your personal taste. I like the topstitching, because it avoids any bumps along the seams. But there is no need for the topstitching to stabilize the dress form. So just do, what you like best! 🙂

    1. Hello Carl,
      I’m not sure, what you mean, but you can get all the measurements you need from measuring the pattern after printing. 🙂

  4. I have problemes with printing the Patter. If I print in A3 the control field ist only1,8 cm by 1,8cm.
    Where is my mistake?
    The dressform is great.I realy want to make one.
    Tanks for ansering .

  5. My cousin asked for a jewellery stand, i thought a bust only version of this would be ideal. Did not read the directions….doh wound up cutting without a sean allowance but since this is to be a smaller necklace stand I finished it up as a first try. I love it, even with all the mistakes. The second one will be amazing!! Thanks!

  6. All of my measurements are much smaller than the ones used to make this dress form. How would I adjust the size?

    1. Hi Alaura!
      I am trying this out today. I am petite but have a good bustline with small waist and good sized hips but not as wide as the pattern. There are precise ways to trim the pattern pieces down as she lists all the finished measurements right in the pattern. Simply subtract your measurements from hers. For instance her bust is larger then mine, I would subtract 35 inches from her measurement of 40 inches. This leaves me having to trim the bust pieces down to my size. I have 5 inches to down size on the bust. The waist is just over 27 inches so I am close enough on that. My lower hip is 36 so hers being 44, I have to cut that back also. A full 8 inches needs to come off the hip pieces. So customizing this just means you subtract each of your measurements from hers and adjust each piece down by that number…

  7. Tout simplement magnifique ton univers tes créations et tes réalisations. Je souligner particulièrement ton sens esprit de partage qui respirent sur ton blog. Et c’est magnifique. Un grand merci à toi.

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